Pigs and churches – After the customary breakfast of gallons of coffee and carbs we hang around to get our stamp before heading off up the hill of cobbled stone and onwards through two valleys which are full of livestock.

pig and cow

pig and cow

There are a lot of pigs. Some are enormous and seem to enjoy the company of cattle and other animals. There are a few groups of mainly Spanish walkers who seem to be doing a short walk and we pass and are passed by them most of the day.

ginga pig

ginga pig

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The open countryside is a real pleasure. We pass an extraordinary large church at Ciguenza that seems at the same time incongruous but comfortable in the wild surroundings. I mean to find out who put it here and why.

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church at ciquenza

church at ciquenza

There is another fine church at CORBRECES where we stop for lunch and can enjoy the views back to the sea and the pilgrim statue that stands proudly on the hill.

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There follows more woodland walking before the final descent into the Seaside town of Comilla. There has been a fair bit of road walking again today but I am generally pleased that i can feel that my general fitness is getting better every day despite the nagging arthritis in my left toe.

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We see a sign that tells us that we still have 575 kms left to walk. I am not daunted by these figures anymore. “Bring it on”, I think to myself as I am growing to love the physical act of walking. I have been told that the first week or so of a long walk is mostly about the physical aspects. Thankfully I have been free of the dreaded blisters and my back has held up pretty well. I find the rhythm of walking is becoming hypnotic as my senses become more acute and attuned to the smells and sounds around me and also within me. My footfall, my breathing and my heartbeat set up a distinct rhythm and I often find myself singing or chanting a new melody that has popped into my head. I notice the small things among the huge horizons.  A delicate mushroom, a particularly verdant moss on a brick wall, a birdsong from a tree above me. And the endorphins released by the walking leave me feeling strangely elated at the end of each day.

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We find a comfortable little hostel in Comillas just as the rains arrive from the mountains. While Mike settles in to get comfortable I decide to brave the rain and to explore the little town and find a map so that we can find a place to eat.